Find the Right Tool for Your Fork

Available as a Starter Kit, Additional Heads, or Full Set — built for home mechanics and professional shops alike.

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Simple Process. Immediate Results.

  • Step 1 — Remove and Secure the Lowers

    Pull the lower legs off the fork and clamp them so they won't rotate. A bench-mounted stand works best — rigidity matters here.

  • Step 2 — Assemble and Oil the Tool

    Slide the T-handle into the body, lock it with the set screw, and bolt on the correct burnishing head. Apply your fork's specified lower leg oil to the head. That's it — the tool only goes together one way.

  • Step 3 — Burnish the Bushings

    Push and pull the tool through the bushings while rotating. No need to remove the seals — the tool passes right through them. Repeat until resistance feels even across all bushings. Some forks take a few passes, others take 20–40. You'll feel the difference.

  • Step 4 — Reassemble and Ride

    Clean up, reassemble the fork, and get back on the bike. Smooth, consistent suspension from the first pedal stroke.

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Frequently Asked Questions

What forks is the tool compatible with?

The RMS burnishing tool is compatible with almost all mountain bike forks. The only known exceptions are the BOS Obsys, EXT Vaia, and 39mm BOS Idylle forks (single and dual crown) from 2021 and newer.

Do I need to remove the seals?

No. The burnishing tool passes right through the seals without removing them. No extra disassembly required beyond pulling the lowers.

How do I know which burnishing head I need?

Each product page includes a full size compatibility chart. Find your fork model in the chart to confirm the correct head size before ordering.

How do I know when burnishing is complete?

You'll feel it. As you work the tool through the bushings, resistance gradually decreases until it plateaus — it stops getting smoother. The goal is to get all four bushings feeling roughly the same resistance. Once you're there, you're done.

My fork is brand new — should I still burnish it?

Possibly. Some forks come from the factory with bushings that are tight or slightly out-of-round. If your new fork feels stiff or notchy, burnishing will help immediately. Even if it feels fine at first, it's worth burnishing again after a few weeks of riding — bushings can conform to out-of-round seats over time as the fork breaks in, which increases friction and harshness. A second burnish after break-in is normal and expected.

Can I burnish the same fork more than once?

Yes — there's no limit. If a fork you've already burnished gets harsh again after a few weeks, the bushings have likely conformed to an out-of-spec seat. Burnish it again. Once the bushings have fully settled into their seats, harshness from this cause typically doesn't return.

What oil should I use?

Use the lower leg oil specified by your fork manufacturer. Any compatible lower leg oil works fine — just make sure something is present on the head before you start.

Will this tool introduce play into my fork?

This is a common concern, and it's worth addressing directly. All forks have clearance between the bushings and stanchions — even brand new from the factory. That clearance isn't a defect, it's a requirement. The stanchions need room to slide smoothly, and the oil film that reduces friction needs space to form. Without clearance, the fork would be completely unrideable — harsh, binding, and brutal on your hands and arms.

The RMS burnishing tool opens bushings to the correct working diameter. It doesn't introduce excessive play — it removes the excess friction caused by bushings that are too tight or out-of-round. The result is a fork that moves the way it was designed to: smoothly, consistently, and with proper oil film lubrication doing its job.

If your fork feels loose or has noticeable slop after burnishing, the bushings were already worn before you started. Burnishing cannot fix worn bushings — that requires replacement.