4.95★ across 44 verified reviews | Used in professional suspension shops | Precision machined in British Columbia, Canada | The bushing sizing standard the industry has adopted
Your Setup Isn't the Problem. Your Bushings Are.
Most riders chasing suspension performance focus on the obvious: air pressure, tokens, rebound, compression. These adjustments can't fix a problem that's upstream of all of them.
Fork bushings wear, conform to out of round seats, and often leave the factory tight. When they're out-of-round or undersized, the lower legs bind instead of sliding freely. You get stiction — a resistance threshold the fork has to overcome before it moves at all. You feel it as harshness on small bumps, arm pump on rough terrain, and a fork that handles big hits fine but feels dead exactly where sensitivity matters most.
Here's what most riders never connect: bushing friction affects rebound too. The same friction slowing your fork into a bump is also slowing it out of one. If you've ever run your rebound adjuster wide open and still felt like your fork was recovering too slowly — that's not a damper problem. That's friction load the damper is fighting on every single stroke. Riders post about this constantly, chasing a rebound tune that doesn't exist.
You can run low pressure, pull volume spacers, open compression, run rebound wide open — and still not get there. Because the problem isn't your tune. It's friction from the bushing fit.
The Tool Does Something a Drill Can't.
Burnishing is complete when resistance equalizes — when the tool moves through all four bushings with the same effort, in both directions. That moment tells you the geometry is correct.
That feedback only exists when you're turning the tool by hand.
Drill-driven tools remove the one signal that tells you the job is done. There's no way to feel the initial resistance differential through a drill, no indicator for when to stop, and no reliable confirmation the process is actually finished. You're guessing.
The RMS tool is designed to be turned by hand because the hand is the instrument. The resistance you feel through the T-handle is the data. That's how you know the process worked.
Find the Right Tool for Your Fork
Available as a Starter Kit, Additional Heads, or Full Set — built for home mechanics and professional shops alike.
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Fork Bushing Burnishing Tool — Starter Kit
Shop Starter KitFrom $290.00 CAD
One handle plus up to three burnishing heads sized to your fork. The right starting point for home mechanics servicing a single fork, or shops evaluating the tool before building out a full set. -
Fork Bushing Burnishing Tool — Full Set
Shop Full SetFrom $595.00 CAD
The complete tool — handle plus all seven heads covering the full range of current fork sizes. Built for shops servicing multiple fork models, or riders who want one tool that handles every fork they'll ever own. -
Fork Bushing Burnishing Head — Additional Sizes
Shop Additional HeadsFrom $95.00 CAD
Up to three head sizes available per fork stanchion diameter. Fits any RMS handle ever made. The right add-on for shops expanding coverage or riders adding a new fork to their lineup.
All orders to the USA and Europe ship DDP. No brokerage fees, no customs surprises, no tariff exposure. All duties and import fees are included — only local taxes may apply at checkout.
Simple Process. Immediate Results.
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Step 1 — Remove and Secure the Lowers
Pull the lower legs off the fork and clamp them so they won't rotate. A bench-mounted stand works best — rigidity matters here.
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Step 2 — Assemble and Oil the Tool
Slide the T-handle into the body, lock it with the set screw, and bolt on the correct burnishing head. Apply your fork's specified lower leg oil to the head. The tool only goes together one way.
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Step 3 — Burnish the Bushings
Push and pull the tool through the bushings while rotating. You'll feel resistance at first. Keep going until resistance plateaus and feels equal across all four bushings. The tool tells you when it's done.
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Step 4 — Reassemble and Ride
Clean up, reassemble the fork, set your pressure, and ride. Most riders feel the difference before they finish the driveway.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will this tool introduce play into my fork?
This is the most common question we get. All fork lowers have clearance between the bushings and stanchions from the factory — that clearance is a design requirement, not a defect. The stanchions need room to slide freely and the oil film needs space to form.
The RMS burnishing head is sized to the correct diameter for each fork. It removes the excess friction caused by bushings that are too tight or out-of-round. It does not remove any material from the bushing itself.
If your fork has noticeable knocking or play after burnishing, the bushings were already worn before you started. Burnishing corrects geometry inside serviceable bushings — it doesn't replace worn ones.
Why does this cost more than other tools?
Because it's made differently and it works differently.
The RMS tool is precision machined in Canada by the person who designed it. The manual process isn't a limitation — it's the point. The resistance you feel through the T-handle is the only reliable signal that burnishing is complete. That feedback doesn't exist in a drill-driven system. You can't feel resistance differential through a drill, and there's no indicator for when to stop.
Forty-four riders have paid the difference. Every one of them said it was worth it.
The Last Suspension Upgrade You'll Make to This Fork.
Clean up, reassemble the fork, set your pressure, and ride. Most riders feel the difference before they finish the driveway.
Free shipping over $102 USD / $140 CAD · Ships DDP to USA and Europe · Precision machined in BC, Canada